Bourgogne Aligoté "Plantation 1902"
Alice and Olivier de Moor live and work in Courgis a small village 7km southwest of Chablis. It is where Olivier grew up, and his “old” cellar, the part where he ages his Chablis in oak barrels, is underneath his grandparents’ house. From the hill where Courgis sits, the view is of vineyards over hills all the way to the Chablis Grand Crus.
Olivier says the landscape has changed a lot in his lifetime, that all the woods, bushes and fallow land that dotted the hills have disappeared in favor of vines.
Alice is from the Jura, and the two met at a large Chablis Estate, where Olivier was in charge of the vineyards. Both are enologists, graduates of the Dijon Enological School, with enough knowledge to take a radically different direction for their vines and wines than their neighbors. While the division of labor principally consists of Olivier in the vines and Alice in the cellar and office, both are equally omnipresent in every role and all decisions are made together.
These have none of the “normal” under ripeness of Chablis, nor are they marked by the gunpowder aromas created by an excess of sulfur.
The de Moors have worked their vines organically since 2005, a rarity in their area. In 2002, they stopped using large harvest bins and replaced them with small boxes where the grapes are not crushed by their own weight. In 2007, they build a large and high-ceilinged winery, allowing them to do all their cellar work by gravity. There is no SO2 used at harvest or during the vinification. Aging as traditionally been in Burgundian barrels of different ages for the Chablis wines, with young vine wines and Sauvignon aged in cement and stainless steel tanks.
Vinification Notes: 100% Aligoté. The de Moors rent and organically farm a small parcel of Aligoté (containing about 5% Chardonnay) planted in 1902 in Saint Bris. The fruit is harvested by hand, destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The wine goes through malo and is aged on its lees without bâtonnage or racking in old Burgundy barrels (vs. the regular Aligoté which is tank-aged) for close to a year. Bottling is without fining or filtering in the fall following the vintage and is the only time a touch of sulfur is added to the wine. Given its naturally tiny yields and increasingly problematic climate events, the “Plantation 1902” is often not bottled, in which case such fruit as there is in a tough vintage will go into the regular estate Aligoté.