Chablis "Clardy et Rosette"
Alice and Olivier de Moor live and work in Courgis a small village 7km southwest of Chablis. It is where Olivier grew up, and his “old” cellar, the part where he ages his Chablis in oak barrels, is underneath his grandparents’ house. From the hill where Courgis sits, the view is of vineyards over hills all the way to the Chablis Grand Crus.
Olivier says the landscape has changed a lot in his lifetime, that all the woods, bushes and fallow land that dotted the hills have disappeared in favor of vines.
Alice is from the Jura, and the two met at a large Chablis Estate, where Olivier was in charge of the vineyards. Both are enologists, graduates of the Dijon Enological School, with enough knowledge to take a radically different direction for their vines and wines than their neighbors. While the division of labor principally consists of Olivier in the vines and Alice in the cellar and office, both are equally omnipresent in every role and all decisions are made together.
These have none of the “normal” under ripeness of Chablis, nor are they marked by the gunpowder aromas created by an excess of sulfur.
The de Moors have worked their vines organically since 2005, a rarity in their area. In 2002, they stopped using large harvest bins and replaced them with small boxes where the grapes are not crushed by their own weight. In 2007, they build a large and high-ceilinged winery, allowing them to do all their cellar work by gravity. There is no SO2 used at harvest or during the vinification. Aging as traditionally been in Burgundian barrels of different ages for the Chablis wines, with young vine wines and Sauvignon aged in cement and stainless steel tanks.
100% Chardonnay. The De Moors are masters of pivoting as required by wildly variable vintages in and around their home turf of Courgis in the Chablis region, and this one-time bottling from 2019 is the perfect example. “Clardy et Rosette” is a combination of two sites normally bottled singly, as Bel Air et Clardy and Coteau de Rosette. This vintage did not yield enough of either to keep them separate.
Both vineyards are in Courgis and were planted by the De Moors starting in 1995. The farming is certified-organic and the harvest by hand. The fruit was destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in tank. The wine went through malo and was aged on its lees without bâtonnage or racking in a combination of used Burgundy barrels and 2500-liter foudres as well as enamel-lined steel tanks for well over a year. Bottling was without fining or filtering. No sulfur was used at harvest or during vinification. Bottled in spring 2021.