Côte de Brouilly
Laurence and Remi Dufaitre mostly make wine out of gamay in Beaujolais- they work their own grapes in Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, and they make a Beaujolais-Villages.
Remi Dufaitre had the good fortune of growing up in a community of early converts and prophets of natural wine- all learning from the philosophy of Jules Chauvet- a/the pioneer of natural wine.
Sidenote, re history of natural wine, the changes to winemaking Chauvet and his first famous ‘gang of four’ disciples/partners were promoting, was a foundational moment for today’s natural wine movement- a deliberate effort to move away from the standard industrial approach towards winemaking, and towards a more balanced and natural way of production. Jean Foillard was one the original 4 disciples of Chauvet, and when he came across Dufaitre’s wines, he recognized the talent and took Remi under his wing, pulling Dufaitre into the extended family of this original group.
This was a tight knit wine community that was convinced by and embraced the outline and spirit of holistic, responsible, chemical free work in the field, along with only natural yeasts and minimal use of any inputs in the cellar, all towards the singular goal of producing delicious wines. These people were gourmands more so than hippies, adjusting the way they got towards a more pure and beautiful wine.
Dufaitre wines are a direct continuation of this tradition, and their wines are wonderful.
The gamays are all kept whole cluster, sorted precisely, and undergo carbonic maceration in concrete tanks, relying only on native yeasts and only adding a minimal (2mg) amount of sulfur at bottling.
The Côte de Brouilly- the southern Beaujolais cru that centers around slopes of Mont Brouilly- is highly regarded for its tendency in producing low yielding vineyards and concentrated grapes, a result of the cru’s well drained soils and sun exposure.
Our favorite of the Dufaitre wines is their gamay from some ideally situated vines in Côte de Brouilly. Although such a pleasure to drink, this isn’t just some crushable red- this wine gives- crafted with real finesse and depth.
Check out this excellent profile, thanks to Wine Terroirs: https://www.wineterroirs.com/2014/10/remi_dufaitre_beaujolais.html