Straight up, despite our stated bias towards Central Europe, a lot of our very favorite producers are actually coming out Moravia & Slovakia- making arcane bottles with a mix of modernity and tradition and artistry, experimental and so fucking tasty.
10 minutes from Bratislava is the bucolic town of Sväty Jur. It sits on the slopes of the Little Carpathians mountains and has embedded within it a rich winemaking tradition of over 700 years. Living in a 17th century house, containing with it their two cellars, are Nadja and Andrej- aka NABOSO- who proudly carry on Sväty Jur’s winemaking tradition. Nadja is a ceramicist and lifelong wine enthusiast, who got into wine working at a wine bar in Copenhagen and a winery in Austria prior to meeting Andrej and moving to Slovakia. Andrej is a charismatic and energetic winemaker, and has been quietly making wine for 10+ years.
Nadja and Andrej have 5ha of south to south-east facing vineyards on granite and sandy soils. They farm entirely organically and all grapes are hand-picked. Observing their harvest, the sense of pride of joy is palpable- these are ebullient winemakers and farmers who make wine because they love to make wine, and hold themselves to a high standard. They follow a simple philosophy: they want to make wine naturally, but they want it to be excellent.
Doma- meaning home- is their Welschriesling, Müller-Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner & Red Sylvaner from 33 year old vines, vinified with 14 days of skin contact and one year of aging in acacia. It’s pleasantly dry, with enough skin contact to give a solid backbone, a mineral foundation that opens up with apricots and hyssop and Ceylon with balanced acidity, and a floral(-> to clover honey) & pithy nose that shares the occasional waft of forest musk.