Le Vendangeur Masqué Carigali
Alice and Olivier de Moor live and work in Courgis a small village 7km southwest of Chablis. It is where Olivier grew up, and his “old” cellar, the part where he ages his Chablis in oak barrels, is underneath his grandparents’ house. From the hill where Courgis sits, the view is of vineyards over hills all the way to the Chablis Grand Crus.
Olivier says the landscape has changed a lot in his lifetime, that all the woods, bushes and fallow land that dotted the hills have disappeared in favor of vines.
Alice is from the Jura, and the two met at a large Chablis Estate, where Olivier was in charge of the vineyards. Both are enologists, graduates of the Dijon Enological School, with enough knowledge to take a radically different direction for their vines and wines than their neighbors. While the division of labor principally consists of Olivier in the vines and Alice in the cellar and office, both are equally omnipresent in every role and all decisions are made together.
These have none of the “normal” under ripeness of Chablis, nor are they marked by the gunpowder aromas created by an excess of sulfur.
The de Moors have worked their vines organically since 2005, a rarity in their area. In 2002, they stopped using large harvest bins and replaced them with small boxes where the grapes are not crushed by their own weight. In 2007, they build a large and high-ceilinged winery, allowing them to do all their cellar work by gravity. There is no SO2 used at harvest or during the vinification. Aging as traditionally been in Burgundian barrels of different ages for the Chablis wines, with young vine wines and Sauvignon aged in cement and stainless steel tanks.
Vinification Notes: 80% Carignan/20% Aligoté. Vendangeur Masqué or “masked harvester” is the label for De Moor wines made mainly from sourced fruit; the wines are made in the De Moor cellar in Courgis in the same manner as their estate wines. The exact make-up of the single de Moor/Vendangeur red changes from year to year but tends to be very pale in color and light in weight and tannin. In 2019, grapes are organically farmed Carignan from the Ardèche in the Rhône combined with de Moor Aligoté–hence the name “Carigali”, a mash-up of the two varieties. The fruit is destemmed, gently pressed and co-fermented spontaneously with native yeasts in tank. Bottling is without fining or flitering almost a year after harvest and is the only time a touch of sulfur is added to the wine.