This is a red whose make-up changes year-year – it is an emphatically “natural” wine in the sense of how the year’s events guide what ends up in the bottle. No aiming for a flavor profile, rather allowing a process to determine its characteristics, which is to say, each vintage is emphatically its own. Olivier Lemasson works nine hectares of vines in the Loire Valley’s Touraine sub-region.
Tasting: High-acid, high-tone red-fruit stopped in its tracks by some serious savory notes – almost like a pendulum between these two ends of flavor. The wine possesses itself beyond prescriptive polarity – its nose opens with sage, earth, mushroom, something rigorous. Palate moved by the acid into high-speed with a medium-length full of pillowy tannins.
Vinification: 60% Cab Franc, 40% Grolleau hand-harvested and co-fermented. Unfined, unfiltered, zero additional SO2 at bottling.
Every vintage will be different, whether it’s because of the weather, the specific grapes used or maybe the winemaker changed up their vinification process. But you owe it to yourself, as well as that one wine and its winemaker, to stick with it. Different vintages allow you to contrast, to compare, to learn and to be truly surprised. And appreciative, when that one wine that changed your life comes back in a new glass to remind you exactly why it did.