Ried Loiserberg Grüner Veltliner
Weingut Jurtschitsch in Langenlois, of Kamptal in Austria, dates back to the 17th century- it’s among the oldest wineries in Kamptal. Previously owned and operated by the brothers Edwin, Karl, and Paul, but now under the guidance of Alwin Jurtschitsch and Stefanie Hasselbach.
The inspiration for their winemaking comes from the classic styles of the region, like the wines their grandparents made- wines of acidity/ripe fruit. Farming organically is necessary to take proper care of the vines and sustain healthy soil, which would in turn lead to the best possible wine they could make. Ever curious, they turned soil in Austria, studied in Germany, harvested in France, gaining as much knowledge as they could.
Alwin and Stefanie prioritize protecting biodiversity in the vineyard, stabilizing the entire system with an abundance of life within it. Among the vines are fruit trees, grass, garlic, insects, and wildflowers. They have a deep understanding of running a family winery – they are the fourth generation, each generation offering something new, the ideal being a mixture of tradition and feeling.
Alwin tells a story about tasting his father’s favorite bottle he ever made- a Riesling from 1969- and upon hearing how it was made, naturally- no temperature control, spontaneous fermentation, no intervention- he knew he was on the right path. He’d traveled, studied, learned all he could, ultimately believing, “it’s not about technique- it’s about personality, it’s about feeling.” He stresses learning to be a good farmer, relaxing in the cellar, to see “the silent voice of terroir in the wines.”
Jurtschitsch’s Loiserberg is a testament to their commitment to terroir-driven, single-site bottles- their Loiserberg vineyard is one of their highest vineyard sites and enjoys a particular microclimate as a result- cool winds whipping through on warm Summer days. It’s an engaging intersection of controlled acidity, tension, and “cool elegance”- waxy early on, with a little sea breeze juniper, and the delicate herbal astringency of some field yarrow- a beautifully layered Grüner that plays real nice with food and really rewards some patience.