Alice and Olivier de Moor live and work in Courgis a small village 7km southwest of Chablis. It is where Olivier grew up, and his “old” cellar, the part where he ages his Chablis in oak barrels, is underneath his grandparents’ house. From the hill where Courgis sits, the view is of vineyards over hills all the way to the Chablis Grand Crus.
Olivier says the landscape has changed a lot in his lifetime, that all the woods, bushes and fallow land that dotted the hills have disappeared in favor of vines.
Alice is from the Jura, and the two met at a large Chablis Estate, where Olivier was in charge of the vineyards. Both are enologists, graduates of the Dijon Enological School, with enough knowledge to take a radically different direction for their vines and wines than their neighbors. While the division of labor principally consists of Olivier in the vines and Alice in the cellar and office, both are equally omnipresent in every role and all decisions are made together.
These have none of the “normal” under ripeness of Chablis, nor are they marked by the gunpowder aromas created by an excess of sulfur.
The de Moors have worked their vines organically since 2005, a rarity in their area. In 2002, they stopped using large harvest bins and replaced them with small boxes where the grapes are not crushed by their own weight. In 2007, they build a large and high-ceilinged winery, allowing them to do all their cellar work by gravity. There is no SO2 used at harvest or during the vinification. Aging as traditionally been in Burgundian barrels of different ages for the Chablis wines, with young vine wines and Sauvignon aged in cement and stainless steel tanks.
St-Bris is a tiny appellation (100H), and the only one in Burgundy that allows Sauvignon Blanc as its main white variety. With the 2016 vintage, the De Moors have chosen to declassify the wine to Vin de France and call it Sans Bruit (“without sound”). The label looks exactly the same and we’re guessing the new name was chosen because it sounds exactly the same when spoken quickly.
The Sauvignon Blanc plot has a north-west exposure, which lets it ripen slowly and get to optimal aromatic expression. This vineyard originally had 30% of its vines missing, and replacements were planted over 8 years with local massale selections of Sauvignon Gris from the Loire valley. This vineyard is also home to the old vine Aligoté that produces the 1902 cuvée.