What you can say with certainty is Sven Enderle and Florian Moll fly in the face of just about every conventional estate in Baden. It’s hard to emphasize how contrarian (and even confrontational) their vineyard and cellar work appears to the powerful coops of the region, to say nothing of the “famous” estates who still seem to pursue efficiency, ripeness, size, alcohol and, yes, new oak, with abandon.

Sven and Florian work with very old vines. In fact their vines are among the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden. They farm all the vineyards organically and biodynamically. Absolutely everything is done by hand in the vineyards (which are quite steep) and in the cellar. They have a direct line on barrels from this little Burgundy estate called Domaine Dujac – the barrels range from one to over five years of age. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

This is a blend of 45 year old vines of equal parts Weißburgunder and Grauburgunder (Pinots Blanc and Gris) plus, for the first time in this vintage, 30% Müller Thurgau. The grapes are fermented for 4 days on the skins before being gently pressed into steel. It then matures for 10 months on the lees before a light filtration and a small addition of sulfur at bottling.

-vom Boden

Click here for an excellent profile of Enderle & Moll from 2013, thanks to Wine Terroirs.